Travis and I headed south to Zion to climb some big sandstone. As teenagers Travis and I climbed a handful of big walls in Zion but stuck mostly to aid routes. Neither of us had been back in many years, getting distracted by clipping bolts, bouldering and cragging in Indian Creek. All very tame pursuits compared to the adventures that we both knew existed in excess in Zion. It was time to explore the awesome free climbing in Zion.
We arrived midday and decided to warm up on a moderate climb: The Headache 5.10. Three pitches of nice handjams.
Can you say splitter?
Me leading the 2nd pitch, more fun. Photo:Travis Kemp
Travis following the second pitch. More perfect handjams.
Mandatory "summit" photo.
Rapping. Travis far below.
The East Temple as the sun begins to set.
The next day we headed to Red Arch Mountain to climb Shune’s Butress 5.11+. A super classic climb that features a little of everything that Zion has to offer. Finger cracks, chimneys, offwidths, perfect hands, even a bit of thin face climbing.
Red Arch Mountain. Shune's buttress starts pretty much in the center of this photo above the tallest tree and climbs straight up through the black rock, heading into the major left-facing dihedral that begins at the end of the black rock. At the end of the dihedral the route jumps left around the arete and climbs an amazing tips to hands overhanging crack to the top.
The first pitch is strenuous fingers in a right-facing corner. Long and sustained with a few rests I think it is the crux pitch of the route. The second pitch is either a 5.9+ chimney (left) or a nice 5.10 finger crack (right). We climbed the the finger crack and it was quite enjoyable. Probably the easiest pitch of the route.
Second pitch finger crack. Photo:Travis Kemp
That took us to the major left-facing dihedral and the beginning of a few offwidth and chimney pitches.
Travis heading up the first of a few offwidth/chimney pitches.
Don't come to Zion unless you like a bit of the wide stuff...
Looking down the the wide corner. The next pitch goes around the sunny arete to the overhanging tips to hands crack.
Me reaching around the arete to the awesome and exposed tips to hands crack. Ridiculously classic. Photo:Travis Kemp
Mandatory summit photo.
Travis all smiles at the bottom after a couple of dark rappels.
Looking pretty dorky myself.
Your photos kick ass, dude.